An Jap metropolis of the ocean

It’s an Jap metropolis of the ocean, pierced by water at its coronary heart, giving- itself to the winds from Marmora, from the Golden Horn, from the Bosporus, from the Black Sea. The snows of Asia look upon it throughout the blue waters of Marmora, the place the lies des Princes sleep in a flickering haze of gold. Stamboul climbs, like Rome, to the summits of seven hills, and gazes over the good harbor, crowded with a forest of masts, echoing with sounds of the ocean, to Galata, and to Pera on the peak. And the Golden Horn narrows to the candy waters of Europe, however broadens towards Seraglio Level into the Bosporus, that superb freeway of water between Europe and Asia, lined with the palaces and the villas of sultans and pashas, of Jap potentates and of the European Powers: Yildiz, and Dolma bagtche, Beyler- bey, and Cheragan, the good palace of the Khedive of Egypt’s mom, with its quay upon the water, going through the villa of her son, which stands on the Asian shore, lifted excessive amid its woods, the palace of the “candy waters of Asia,” the big red-roofed palace the place Ismail died in exile.

Farther on towards Therapia, the place stand the summer season embassies of the Powers, Robert School, dignified, trying from afar virtually like an amazing grey fortress, rises on its peak above its sloping gardens. Gaze from any summit upon Constantinople, and you’re amazed by the marvel of it, by the marvel of its setting. There’s a vastness, a glory of males, of ships, of seas, of moun-tains, on this grand view which units it aside from all different views of the world. Two seas ship it their message. Two continents give of their magnificence to make it lovely. Two religions have striven to sanctify it with superb buildings. Within the midst of its hidden squalor and crime rises what many contemplate probably the most lovely church—now a mosque—on this planet. Maybe no harbor in Europe can examine with its harbor. For human and historic curiosity it might probably scarcely be equaled. Within the shadow of its marvelous partitions, guarded by innumerable towers and girdled by forests of cypresses, it lies like some nice magician, glittering, mysterious, artful, pray-ing, singing, intriguing, assassinating, seeking to East and West, watchful, and filled with fanaticism.

The well-known outdated timber bridge

I crossed the brand new bridge. The well-known outdated timber bridge, which rocks below your toes, has been moved up the Golden Horn, and now spans the ocean by the marine barracks. Night was falling; a wind had introduced clouds from the Black Sea tour. The waters have been colorless, and have been licked into fretful wavelets, on which the fragile pointed caiques swayed like leaves on a tide. Reverse to me, on the fringe of Stamboul, the large Mosque of Yeni-Valide-Jamissi rose, with its crowd of cupolas giant and small and its prodigious minarets. Though constructed by two ladies, it seemed stern and male, gave the impression to be guarding the bridge, to be proclaiming to all of the mongrels from Galata and Pera, who hurried from shore to shore, that Stamboul will make no compro-mise with the infidel, that within the nice house earlier than this mosque the true East in Europe begins.


A really cheerful-looking nation

Greece, although sparsely inhabited, is in the principle a really cheerful-looking nation. The loneliness of a lot of it isn’t miserable, the bareness of a lot of it isn’t unhappy. I started to know this on the day after I went to the plain of Marathon, which, for-tunately, lies away from railroads. One should go there by carriage or motor or on horseback. The highway is unhealthy each for beasts and equipment, but it surely passes by nation which is typical of Greece, and thru which it might be silly to go in haste.

Go quietly to Marathon, spend two hours there, or extra, and while you return within the night to Athens you’ll have tasted a brand new pleasure. You’ll have lived for a short while in an beautiful pastoral—a pastoral by which, it’s true, no pipes of Pan have fluted to you,—I heard little music in Greece,—however which has been stuffed with that lightness, brightness, simplicity, and delicacy peculiar to Greece. The soil of the land is mild, and I imagine, although Hellenes have informed me that on this perception I’m unsuitable, that the guts of the individuals is mild. Actually the guts of 1 traveler was as he made his approach to Marathon alongside a white highway thickly powdered with mud.

Not every land its consultant tree

Has not every land its consultant tree? America has it maple. England its oak, France its poplar, Italy its olive, Turkey its cypress, Egypt its palm, and so forth. The consultant tree of Greece is the pine. I don’t forget the wild olive, from which in previous days the crowns have been made, nor the truth that the guide-books say that in a Greek panorama the plenty of shade are normally fashioned by the silver- inexperienced olive-trees. It appeared to me, and it appears to me nonetheless in remembrance, that the stunning little pine is probably the most valuable decoration of the Grecian scene.

Marathon that day was a pastoral of yellow and blue, of pines and sea. On the best way I handed by nice olive-groves, in considered one of which lengthy since some countrymen of mine have been taken by brigands and carried away to be accomplished to demise. And there have been mighty fig-trees, and mulberry-trees, and acres and acres of vines, with right here and there an virtually black cypress amongst them. However the pines, extra yellow than inexperienced, and the intense blue sea made the image that lives in my reminiscence.



A maiden was making butter in an old style wood churn

A maiden was making butter in an old style wood churn, and we beo-cred the butter-milk. She consented, and we waited till the butter was made, after which drank two massive bowls every ; and terribly refreshing it was after our arduous day. The neatness, simplicity and excessive cleanliness of every thing, together with the peasants’ garments, the rooms, and the utensils, was very putting. As we sat, cattle and buffaloes got here to the door, pushed it open with their heads, and walked unattended to their very own appointed locations. Earlier than we went we paid a small sum. and have been dismissed with many good needs, and an important load of little candy white cherries. The peasant was involved in my journey. He had even heard of England, however solely because the place whence come criminals who burgle banks.

As we returned to the camp we handed the village wells, at which have been assembled all of the youth of the place, lads and maidens, in dazzlingly white raiment, rendered brighter by splashes of pink and yellow. They have been drawing water for the cattle, and speaking gaily the whereas. It was a pleasing image to recall mentally as I lay that night time awaiting sleep.


THE final two days had been too strenuous for me, and I awoke at daybreak feeling a lot depressed. My journey appeared a failure : I used to be studying nothing, and was not even a spectator of the conventional lifetime of the comb-makers. We travelled so quickly that dialog was unattainable; and, once we halted, fatigue prohibited any severe try at inquiry or investigation. The tour was expensive; and I used to be not even having fun with myself. With out getting up I wrote a melancholy notice to the Vice-Consul at Varna, and watched Gina lighting her morning fireplace—a ineffective ceremony, because it appeared, for nothing was ever cooked upon it. And as I watched and fretted inwardly, the village hens strolled out upon the frequent, searching for meals, pecking right here and there, and advancing regularly till they approached our camp.

One, extra daring than the remainder, ventured inside attain of the boris hand as she sat stitching by her aimless fireplace, and I used to be questioning, sleepily, what she had forged on the bottom to tempt it, and why hens have been so silly, when there was a sudden movement of that hand—fast because the motion of a chameleon’s tongue when he catches a fly; there was a stifled clucking, and the chook was not seen, although Gina continued her occupation as if nothing had occurred. And all that day occasional muffled sounds revealed the presence of a hen someplace within the taliga, and these sounds ceased solely about an hour earlier than our. meal, which consisted of boiled fowl.


Appeared to shine with uncommon splendour

Then I started to rely the celebs, which appeared to shine with uncommon splendour, and earlier than I reached fifty I used to be quick asleep.

I awoke at half-past three, and placing out my hand, discovered that my face and my quilt have been moist with heavy dew. A thick mist had risen from the lake and swamps close to which we have been encamped, and it was some hours earlier than the solar dispersed it. At a couple of quarter-to-four the outdated girl arose, groaning a lot, as if she have been significantly sick; however she lay down a couple of quarter of an hour later, when the bori started the work of the day. I, too, fell asleep once more, however obtained up with the remaining at about six o’clock, discovered the bori sitting by a hearth she had made, stitching diligently, and walked off with towels, cleaning soap, and brushes, to scrub within the river, close to a picket bridge which leads from the principle highway to the village of Gebedzhe. This bridge have to be indispensable now ; but underneath different circumstances, lower than fifty years in the past, when it was constructed by a British engineer to facilitate the development of the railway-line from Bustshuk to Varna, it was lower down throughout the first evening after its completion, and the mortified builder was advised that, relatively than reside with such quick access from the highway, the villagers would burn their homes, and migrate to a much less approachable spot.

The Gypsies’ ablutions have been easier than mine, for they contented themselves with pouring water over their arms and heads, utilizing no cleaning soap. Additionally they fastidiously rinsed their mouths and gargled, and Turi scrubbed his enamel along with his thumb. Then every of us drank a tiny cup of Turkish espresso, wonderful in high quality, however in amount a mockery of breakfast, and a depressing help for the lengthy and laborious day; the horses, which had been tethered close to the waggon, have been harnessed, and by seven o’clock we have been jolting violently alongside an alleged highway. It skirted a lake, however at first the mist rendered the whole lot invisible, besides a fringe of reeds, from which was heard the refrain of innumerable frogs.

Halted outdoors Little Pravadia

We halted outdoors Little Pravadia, unharnessing the horses that they could eat the grass we had collected, and with an uncontrollable nostalgie for ham and eggs, I allowed my hopes to dwell pleasantly on the prospect of bread, and maybe butter. I assumed, in fact, that we had paused for a meal, and was dismayed to seek out that Petrika, extra merciful to his beasts than he was to his household and myself, had no need besides to be shaved. By success we discovered the barber’s store crowded, and I persuaded the outdated man to stroll on, whither I a lot most well-liked, to the khan to eat a savoury breakfast with wine. The native constable gladly accepted an invite to share our meal, and I watched, with amusement, the consultant of regulation and order making to himself a good friend of the mammon of unrighteousness, every, little doubt, with a far-seeing eye on some future benefit. Totana and the others have been left ravenous, and didn’t appear to thoughts it, for the Gypsies observe the old Turkish rule, and eat solely as soon as a day, usually after sundown, although they often tempered their abstemiousness to my western voracity by munching crusts within the forenoon, or calling at khans for supplementary meals.

Typically emphasised that Velchev

In one other letter Swire wrote that ‘It can’t be too typically emphasised that Velchev is NOT a republican: however he wished to clip the King’s wings in order that he might do no extra hurt, both wittingly or unwittingly.’ And in the identical supply we learn just a little earlier that not solely was Velchev not a republican however in actuality a defender, albeit maybe a reluctant one, of the monarchy:

One other mistake made in England is to again King Boris as a result of he drives railway engines and infrequently shakes palms with peasants. Both he’s intentionally reactionary, or he’s a weak-kneed flop exploited by the reactionaries. The peasants are muttering angrily about “that Coburg”. Velchev as soon as instructed me he thought the day would come when he must save the monarchy—and if he lives I believe he in all probability will. I imagine the King himself is starting to understand that too.

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We all know full effectively that such cooperation between Boris and Velchev by no means did happen, nor did Swire’s naive perception in it final very lengthy. Quickly after Velchev’s arrest he was writing in very bitter and scathing phrases of Boris.


King Alexander visited Sofia

A narrative is reliably instructed in Belgrade that when King Alexander visited Sofia on the finish of Sep* tember 1934 King Boris, earlier than presenting Velchev to him, remarked: “That is our Apis”. ., Subsequent day King Boris abruptly requested King Alexander: “How did you rid your self of your Apis?”, to which Alexander replied that not he however a accountable Authorities had “liquidated” Apis and his buddies. And when Alexander, on returning to Belgrade, was discussing his go to to Sofia along with his Cupboard he stated (in keeping with this story): “King Boris tried to get me to prescribe a components whereby he might do away with Velchev. Velchev had higher take care.”25

This was after all pure hypothesis and we now have no proof that Boris ever made such remarks, however that Swire might report them is a measure of his personal mistrust of the King. This mistrust put Swire at odds along with his personal authorities in London and with British representatives in Sofia.


Books from the library on making a small deposit

All townspeople are permitted to borrow books from the library on making a small deposit; and I’m assured by the librarian that delays or defaults in returning the books borrowed are of very unusual incidence. The Sobranje votes about 400 yearly for the acquisition of books; nevertheless, with this exception, your complete payments of the institution are defrayed by the municipality.

Visiting the model new waterworks in Philippopolis

I drove out one afternoon all through my maintain at Philippopolis to go to the model new waterworks, which sort the chief enchancment that the city has however carried out There was till simply currently an extreme quantity of fever proper right here, which was attributed to the unhealthy prime quality of the water present. The water of the Maritza is supposed to be polluted by town sewage, which percolates into the river. Moreover, as an vital part of the city is constructed on the rocky heights of which I’ve spoken, water from the Maritza wanted to be launched up in buckets. With a view to obviate these defects, town authorities decided, on the advice of an eminent Belgian company of hydraulic engineers, to accumulate their water from a mountain stream inside the Rhodope Hills, at a distance of some ten miles from the city; the stream to be tapped at an elevation significantly above the easiest stage of the hills of Philippopolis. The situation of the outtake is in a singularly picturesque mountain gorge. The water, after being diverted from the stream, passes by the use of loads of tanks, the place it’s fastidiously filtered, and is then conveyed to Philippopolis by iron culverts. The scheme has proved a complete success as a manner of supplying town with a just about limitless quantity of singularly up to date and clear water. There was of late a very marked enchancment inside the healthiness of the city, though whether or not or not this enchancment is submit hoc or propter hoc I’ve no technique of claiming.

No value is launched further usually in direction of Bulgaria by of us

I talk to this incident on account of it seems to me an illustration of the great sense which, on your complete, characterizes the native administration of the nation. No value is launched further usually in direction of Bulgaria by people who, for one set off or one different, are dissatisfied with the present order of points, than the assertion that, beneath the model new regime, the native indebtedness of the municipalities has assumed extreme and alarming proportions. Philippopolis is usually cited for instance of this alleged extravagance. However when the information given me by people who’ve little curiosity within the matter is reliable, the price on this event has little or no foundation. Given that liberation of Jap Roumelia Philippopolis has incurred a debt of £ 120,000, which, within the main, was borrowed from the Nationwide Monetary establishment of Bulgaria at a value, for curiosity and sinking fund, of about 10 per cent The earnings of town, which is especially derived from the octree duties, is about £20,000; and, with the quick growth of the inhabitants, this earnings is steadily on the rise.

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Wood galleries working spherical them

Others are broad and big, with nice cupolas above them, and, far up, picket galleries working spherical them. Every now and then you come across an outdated fountain of stained marble and dim faience about which males are squatting on their haunches to clean their faces and hands- and their rigorously bared arms. The lanes are paved and are sometimes slippery. Slightly below the lofty roof there are home windows of white glass, and about them, and on arches and partitions, there are crude decorations in robust blues and purples, yellows and greens. The intense retailers from many lands don’t beset you with importunities as you cross; however typically a lustrous pair of eyes invitations you to pause, or a darkish and long-fingered hand gently beckons you towards a jewel, a prayer-carpet, a weapon, or one thing unusual in silver or gold or ivory.

At some point a person from Bagdad invited me to purchase an image as I drew close to to him. It was the portrait of a dervish’s cap labored in silk. The cap, orange- coloured and silver, was perched upon a small desk (within the image) above which hung curtains in two shades of inexperienced. A heavy gilt body surrounded this “outdated grasp” of the East. We bargained. The service provider’s languages had been damaged, however at size I understood him to say that the cap was an ideal likeness. I retorted that each one the dervishes’ caps I had seen upon dwelling heads had been the colour of earth. The service provider, I imagine, pitied my ignorance. His eyes, fingers, arms, and even his shoulders had been eloquent of compassion. He lowered the worth of the image by about half a farthing in Turkish cash, however I resisted the blandishment and escaped into the jewel bazaar, half regretting a misplaced alternative.

Many Turkish girls come to the bazaars

Many Turkish girls come to the bazaars solely to fulfill their lovers. They cowl a secret want by a pretense of constructing purchases. From the higher ground of the yellow-blue-and-red kiosk, by which Turkish sweets are offered, and you may eat the breasts of chick-ens cooked deliciously in cream and served with milk and starch, I’ve watched these delicate truants passing of their fairly disguises suggestive of a masked ball. They appear delicate and swish of their skinny and shining robes, like dominoes, of black or typically of prune-color, with crape dropping over their faces and letting you see not sufficient; for a lot of Turkish girls are fairly.


Journey with the Zagundzhis

“ This nice one needs to journey with the Zagundzhis ! ” The elders drew of their breath, shuddered with obedient horror, and made gestures of protest. It was as if the Lord Mayor had introduced to the aldermen that the King proposed to brush Petticoat Lane. “ He can be lined with lice to the elbows,” Osman continued, “they may give him hens to eat which have died a pure loss of life; they may rob him, minimize his throat within the evening, and depart his physique in a ditch.” Once more the elders shuddered at my destiny. “ I might reasonably all my kids ought to die ! ” After which, with a powerful blow on the little desk, and the voice of a tyrant figuring out the destiny of a nation : “ I cannot permit it! ”

OUR diplomatic mission, our go to of ceremony, had failed and my place remained as uncomfortable as ever. For awhile I cheered myself with the delusion golden key would simply open the door of escape, however after providing what should have been regarded by the Zagundzhis as a small fortune, I noticed that Osman’s authority was so nice that, because of his prohibition made thus publicly, no Gypsy might be discovered within the Mohammedan mahala over which he dominated, who was prepared to danger his displeasure by travelling with me. Meti withdrew his promise directly, declaring that the chief would kill him if he disobeyed, and that the expedition was unimaginable.

At first the one resolution of the issue seemed to be the successful or shopping for of Osman’s approval, and he confirmed no indicators of yielding. However simply as issues appeared to have reached a hopeless deadlock, there arrived close to Varna a celebration of eight tents of Christian

Gypsies who didn’t acknowledge Osman’s authority. That they had not one of the reason- destroying allurement of the Zagundzhis—one didn’t love them for the sake of their grime and rags and vermin, and the wonderful savagery implied. If they’d been soiled and ragged, one would have revered them despite their faults: not for his or her faults’ sake. However as a matter of truth they appeared at first sight to be clear, trustworthy, industrious folks, well mannered, hospitable, and nicely supplied with the necessaries of their nomad life. They weren’t town-Gypsies : they didn’t beg, and the youngsters have been so shy that, when addressed by strangers, they lined their faces with their palms and cried.


Bulgarian journalists visiting England and personal Balkan holidays

The explanations for the proposal had been attention-grabbing sufficient to warrant recital at size.

1)The newspapers are the chief literature of the Bulgarian lots. Books take second place — each Bulgarian reads his newspaper, however solely a share learn books. Thus the newspapers are a significant medium for propaganda.

2)Bulgarian journalists occupy a really excessive place within the nation and are very extremely considered. Usually journalists turn out to be ministers and ministers journalists — there are any variety of journalists. Thus the Bulgarian journalist is a person of significance, partly for himself and partly on account of the affect he workouts, via his papers, over the lots.

three)Numerous European nations, alive to the significance of the press, and involved in Bulgaria for political or financial causes, have set a precedent. Over the last two years Bulgarian journalists have been invited to go to Italy, France, Germany, Poland, Hungary, Yugoslavia and Rumania, and their bills have been paid.

four)Aside from apparent business pursuits Nice Britain has, I preserve, a really important political curiosity in Bulgaria, mainly on account of the Dardanelles query. Bulgaria’s strategic significance was proved as much as the hilt throughout the World Conflict — and she or he entered that battle towards us largely as a result of we uncared for to take, in time, apparent steps to stop that occurence. The disastrous penalties are issues of widespread information. However, throughout current years, no severe steps no matter have been taken to make British propaganda on this nation, whereas different European nations have been spending giant sums of cash for this goal, sustaining faculties and golf equipment. It might be argued that British status is already excessive sufficient —that British energy and tradition are broadly identified. This I contest. It was. However now it’s in grave hazard of eclipse by the actions of others. The recollections of the lots are quick, and the press is the very best medium for reviving them.

Bulgarian journalists visiting England

5)Bulgarian journalists visiting England would write their experiences and impressions in a collection of articles. However much more vital, when occasions happen in Englund or affecting England, these journalists may have perspective or “background.” These factors held good earlier than the change of regime right here, [19 May 1934 — RJC] and so they have greater than ever now, because the newspapers will likely be obliged, owing to the censorship and the suppression of celebration politics, to show greater than ever earlier than to international affairs for “copy”. There may be, furthermore, the worth of non-public contacts between these Bulgarians who go to England and the chums they may make there; and the mere incontrovertible fact that an invite is issued would make a most beneficial impression.

The Balkans, oh these Balkans! All the time the Balkans have atrracted folks as a result of there’s something about them. In my view, you folks ought to pack and go for private Balkan holidays.

The hill towards Yildiz to see the Selamlik and issues to do in Bulgaria

Sooner or later I went up the hill towards Yildiz to see the Selamlik. That morning the sultan was going to wish within the mosque of wooden which Abdul Hamid constructed near the mysterious, walled-in quarter of palaces, harems, kiosks, gardens, barracks, and parks which he made his jail. From the Bosporus you’ll be able to see it extending from the hilltop virtually to the ocean, a fantastic property, outdoors the town, but dominating it, with dense groves of timber wherein.wild animals had been stored, with open areas, with solitary buildings and features of roofs, and the cupola of the mosque ot the troopers. All about it are the excessive partitions which a coward raised as much as shield him and his concern. The mosque is beneath the nice entrance- gates on a steep hillside past the partitions. A big fashionable home, white, with inexperienced shutters, wherein Abdul Hamid used to grant audiences and, I consider, to provide banquets, appears to be like down on it. From the higher home windows of this dwelling the Turks say the ex-sultan typically stared at his metropolis via highly effective glasses.

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The mosque isn’t giant

The mosque isn’t giant. It’s yellow and white, with a minaret of plaster on the aspect subsequent the ocean, and a graveled courtyard surrounded by inexperienced iron railings and planted with a number of timber. On the aspect subsequent to Yildiz is a steep financial institution. A highway runs up the hill to the left of the mosque as you face Yildiz, and one other hidden highway descends from the gates and provides entry to the’ courtyard behind the mosque. The sultan has subsequently a selection of two routes, and no person appears to know beforehand which approach he’ll come. There have been only a few vacationers in Constan-tinople after I was there. Individuals had been afraid of conflict, and earlier than I left the Orient specific had ceased to run. However I discovered awaiting the padishah many Indian pilgrims, a big troop of pilgrims from Trebizond who had been on their solution to Mecca, a number of Persians sporting black toques, and a superb many Turks. These had been within the courtyard near the mosque, the place I used to be allowed to face by the arisrtocratic younger chief of police, who wore a woolly, grey, fez-shaped cap. Outdoors the railings stood a dense crowcj of veiled girls.

Quickly after I arrived a squadron of the body-guard rode up from the town, carrying red-and-green pen- , nons on lengthy staffs, and halted earlier than the gates of the palace. And virtually on the similar second the palace musicians, in dark-blue, pink, and gold, sporting quick swords, and carrying shining brass devices, marched into the inclosure. They stood nonetheless, then dropped their devices on the bottom, moved away, and sat down on the financial institution, lolling in straightforward attitudes. Time slipped by, and essential folks strolled in, officers, courtroom officers, attendants.