The contrasts are picturesque
The contrasts are picturesque, however they’re tough, and, when sophisticated by Bora, are complicated, nearly distressing. However, Spalato is effectively value a go to. It incorporates a small, however exceptional, museum, specifically attention-grabbing for its sarcophagi discovered at Salona and its assortment of inscriptions. The sarcophagus exhibiting the passage of the Purple Sea may be very curious. Aside from the now disfigured palace, the Battistero, the very attention-grabbing and peculiar cathedral, with its vestibule, its rotunda, and its Piazza of the Sphinx, like nothing else I’ve seen, the city is stuffed with picturesque nooks and corners; and its fruit market on the foot of the huge octagonal Hrvoja Tower, which dates from 1481, is probably much more animated, extra filled with strangeness and shade, than Zara’s Piazza delle Erbe. Right here could also be seen turbans of crimson on the good-looking heads of males, elaborately embroidered crimson jackets protecting immense shoulders and chests, ladies wearing blue and purple, white and silver, or with heads and busts draped in essentially the most good shade of orange shade. When Bora blows, the boys seem like monks or Mephistopheles; for some—the better quantity—wrap themselves from head to foot in lengthy’ cloaks and hoods of brown, whereas others of a extra energetic temperament shroud themselves in purple. They’re a good-looking folks, rustic-looking, but usually noble, with form but maintain faces, regular eyes, and an impressive physique. Their gait is giant and free. There are giants in Dalmatia in our days. And lots of the ladies will not be solely fairly, hut have pleasant expressions, open, pure, and homosexual. There appears to he nothing to worry in Dalmatia. I’ve pushed by way of the wilds, and over the flanks of the mountains, each in Dalmatia and Herzegovina, within the lifeless of the night time, and had no disagreeable expertise. The peasants have a excessive repute for honesty and normal probity in addition to for braveness. And beggars are scarce, in the event that they exist in any respect, in Dalmatia.
The riviera of the Sette Castelli
Trau has a singular attraction. The riviera of the Sette Castelli stretches between it and Spalato, alongside the shore of an inlet of the ocean which is strictly like a blue lake. And what a wonderful blue it’s on a cloudless autumn day! Each one is aware of what’s ‘ meant by a rapture of spring. Those that traverse that riviera on the finish of October, and even within the opening days of November, will know what a rapture of autumn could be.